October 9, 2011 § 8 Comments
This has turned into quite a hiking vacation! Which makes me happy (Joel’s knee is somewhat less happy, but it’s being a trooper). This is partly due to some of the main paths being closed forcing us to either take the train or the back routes to get some places, and choosing the back routes. And partly due to a desire to get away from the throngiest throngs of tourists (I can’t even imagine what this place is like during peak tourist season!).
We’ve been exploring the Cinque Terre area, and though each day we’ve been hiking only 7-10 or so kilometers, the nature of the trails still makes it pretty strenuous. The builders of the paths seem not to have believed in horizontal traveling, only vertical. So, going for a walk is like going on a Stairmaster, except with scenery that’s about 571 million times more spectacular.
August 10, 2010 § 1 Comment
We took Joel for a mountain hike up in Telemark to make sure he had both the seaside and mountain experience of Norway. This wasn’t a piddly little walk, it was a legit hike up the upper part of the ridge of one of Norway’s higher mountains, Gaustatoppen. If there were a description of the hike in a guidebook (actually there probably is one somewhere, but I don’t have it so I’ll make it up), I’d guess it would say something like: ‘On this hike you will be gratified by amazing views of mountains and valleys. In fact on a clear day a hiker can see 1/6th of the entire country from the top of Gaustatoppen. Cherish these views, for you will have earned them. The climb to the top will take a fairly swift group of adults about 2 hours of scrambling over loose scree, exposed above the tree line. You will be going up, up, up, up. An intelligent foreign hiker will take advantage of the excuse of a view to stop for occasional breaks. Once you have reached the top and enjoyed your triumph, you will be faced with the hike back down, on which you will encounter the self same scrubby loose rocks you clambered over on the way up. In the downward direction these rocks are liable to cause spills and the odd twisted ankle. Have fun!’
It was a picture perfect day for a hike, but had we been hiking something equivalent in the U.S. I’d guess we would have run into at most 5 or so other people, and there would have been a book at the top, in which we would have signed our names and been able to read proud accounts from other intrepid hikers. In Norway, as we pulled up to the hut at the base of the hike, we saw an impressive line of parked carves, snaking along the side of the narrow road. Most of them were mini vans. And, as we began climbing it was easy to see why. In Norway, Gaustatoppen is considered a perfectly family friendly hike. It wouldn’t occur to many Norwegians even to wonder if their 3, or 5, or 7 year old would be able to climb up a mountain. Of course they can! What else would a person in their right mind wish to do on a gorgeous day (if you aren’t by the ocean, that is)?! Certainly a hike takes longer if you’re carrying a 2 year old and leading a 6 year old, but parents seem to be perfectly fine with taking the time they need. It’s an opportunity to hunt trolls, chase sheep, and contemplate which types of rocks are best for sitting or throwing or what have you. And if you’re bringing your 82-year-old grandmother with you, well you don’t even need to slow down a bit for her! She’s likely to leave you eating her dust as she jets up the mountainside. « Read the rest of this entry »
February 16, 2010 § 1 Comment
I hope everyone had a fabulous Valentine’s Day and President’s Day weekend! And now it’s Mardi Gras! It’s like holidays on parade! I was lucky enough to get to take the long weekend and head into the woods of New Hampshire to hike and camp with friends. It was a weekend of wood fires, poetry, windy mountaintops, snowshoes, and the occasional glissade down an icy rock face with only ice axes to direct where we were sliding and keep us from careening over a cliff. Wahoo! It was pretty sweet.
Anyway, I adore being out in the woods. But after I get back home from a string of days in the forest eating mostly trail mix, bread and cheese, and other highly packable foods, I find myself desperately wanting, well a shower first of all, but then some really fresh and healthy feeling food. Which, in my world, most often translates as fish and vegetables. « Read the rest of this entry »